Hammocking 101

As someone who has been hammocking almost exclusively on all my backpacking trips for a number of years, I often get asked "What do I need to do to start Hammocking?" I hang in all 4 seasons, so I guess I've become something of an authority on the subject.  At least among DCUL anyway ;)

There is of course a great book out there that can give you a jump start, The Ultimate Hang.  I actually didn't come across it until well after I had already traversed the painful hammock learning curve.  I could have avoided some VERY cold nights!  But trial and error is just my style.

Feel free to use the following advice in lieu of (or in addition too!) Derek's book.  I'll also sprinkle this primer with the gear and hardware I've used throughout my hammocking career.


Why Hammock?

For those who might be reading this and don't know what all the fuss is about, I should probably start with the obvious question: "Why hammock at all?  What's wrong with my ground system?"

Well, probably not a thing!  It's a personal preference, but there are some advantages to hangin'.

For me, most importantly, I hammock to get a good nights sleep outdoors.  Try as I might, I just don't sleep well on the ground.  I'm a side sleeper mainly, with broad shoulders.  No matter how luxurious a sleeping pad I employ, I rotisserie all night and still wake up with acking back, shoulders, and hips.  All those issues became a thing of the past when I become a "hanger".

Another advantage, which was highlighted on the very first trip I tried hammocking, is staying "high n' dry".  If you've done it correctly, the only bit of your sleep and shelter system that will get wet during a downpour is your tarp.  Even if you setup after (or during!) a storm.  You can blissfully pack up your gear and keep it dry under the safety of your shelter while your camp mates are wallowing in the mud!

So what are the disadvantages?

Compared to a ground system, I would say that a complete hammock system is going to be (potentially) slightly more expensive, and also slightly heavier.  Depending on the setup, my hammock system weighs in between 8 and 16 ounces heavier than my comparable ground system.  In the summer however, my hammock setup can actually be lighter than my ground setup!

There is also the previously mentioned steep learning curve.  Hammocking is inherently more complex.  You have more moving parts and pieces.  I think I can generally have my hammock setup just as fast as most people put together their ground system - but I've had some long setup times due to exhaustion or frozen fingers.  Or sometimes the trees don't cooperate and you just can't find a good spot for a perfect "hang".  In addition, a failure of your suspension or hammock itself my lead to spending an uncomfortable night on the ground.

For me, the slight disadvantages are more than blown away by all the advantages.  I probably would have stopped backpacking long ago if I had stayed with ground sleeping.  So far, I haven't experienced a critical failure of my system - but I have seen it happen to others.


The Anatomy of The Hang

A hammock system essentially has the same pieces as a ground system, with the hammock itself thrown in.  You have your shelter, your top insulation, and your bottom insulation.  We'll start with that tricky bottom insulation first.

Underquilts!

The first time I hammocked overnight was actually in The Black Hills of South Dakota in the summer with a cheapo Byer Traveller Lite Hammock.  It seemed like a perfect fit!  Mild weather, lots of trees, what could possibly go wrong?

Well it wasn't bad, but I was definitely cold.  I'm sure the temperature never got below 50, but with no underquilt or pad, the mild summer night and light winds most certainly chilled me.  Yeah, classic noob hammocker mistake.  You gotta have bottom insulation.  Almost all of us have a similar story.

The next few trips after that I used my foam Z-lite sleeping pad.  This was way warmer, but still not ideal.  My shoulders always got cold (being pressed up against the hammock), and I found myself slipping around all night.  Staying on the pad was a challenge.

Then, at long last, I discovered the miraculous invention that is the Underquilt.  Hammocking has been bliss ever since.  No more Cold-Butt-Syndrome.  No more chilly, sleepless nights!

Underquilts have a comfort rating just like sleeping bags (and top quilts) to help you choose the one you need.

I've purchased several from Hammock Gear over the years.  Their prices are good, quality top-notch, and comfort ratings are quite generous.  You can get your quilt custom made exactly the way you want it.

Bottom line - never go hammocking without bottom insulation, any more than you would sleep right on the ground.  No, not even in the summer!  Even on hot Virginia nights, I might leave my top quilt at home, but you bet your butt I'll have an underquilt.  I also can't really recommend using a pad in a hammock.  Yes, it works.  And plenty of people are completely happy with it.  But in my humble opinion the underquilt is the only game in town.

Top Quilts/Sleeping Bags

This part is easy.  Chances are, you already have a sleeping bag or two.  It works just fine for hammocking!  I used several more or less in "quilt mode" (i.e. unzipped and just on top of me) when I first started hanging.  Eventually I starting acquiring topquilts (also from Hammock Gear) to save some weight and shed some excess bulk.  You might find in the mild summer months that a bag liner is all you need.  So top insulation, check!

Shelter

There are a variety of tarps you can use for keeping out of the wind and rain.  From a plain old nylon square tarp to one purpose built for hammocks.  I started off with an ENO ProFly - cheap, durable, and easy to setup.  Eventually I wanted less weight, and more coverage.  Enter Cuben Fiber!  I purchased a cuben tarp with doors from Hammock Gear - and it's been all I've used since.  6.4 ounces (sans cordage)!

I eventually rigged the tie-outs with 1/8" shock cord and Nite Ize Figure 9s (after trying various other methods).  This makes for a rapid and easy-to-adjust setup.  It also takes up any slack that might develop in your tarp due to rain, snow, or any minor adjustments you make.  Combined with some fancy titanium gear from www.dutchware.com I had a lighting fast setup with minimal weight.

If you are already familiar with ground tarps for shelters - or you like cowboy camping - transitioning to sleeping under a hammock tarp is pretty easy.  If you are used to more traditional tents or other fully enclosed shelters, you mind find it a little disconcerting at first.  But give it some time - you might find you love the open feeling!  Especially once you enjoy the other benefits, such as total lack of condensation.  It's hard to beat getting gently rocked to sleep under a canopy of stars.

The Hammock

So which hammock to pick?  There are probably hundreds if not thousands of hammock manufacturers out there.  There are also multiple types.  The kind I'll be talking about are gathered end hammocks.  As opposed to another common type, a bridge hammock.  Gathered end hammocks work by creating a nice "sag" in the middle.  You get in, and then sleep diagonally - this keeps your back and legs straight.  A bridge hammock is meant to be suspended tightly, and uses rods or poles at the end to keep everything taut.

Gathered end hammocks are not only lighter and cheaper, I think they are more comfortable.  They are also a cinch to setup.

Like I mentioned above, I used a dirt cheap Byer Traveller Lite Hammock for years before deciding to upgrade.  I wanted an even bigger (and lighter) hammock for my 6'5" frame, so I checked out Butt In A Sling.  Their "Weight Weenie Micro" checked both those boxes.  It also has a built in Amsteel ridgeline - something I hadn't tried before but consider a must have feature now.  It not only gives you a consistent sag, it gives you a place to hang your stuff at night!

More recently I discovered Sheltowee Hammocks.  They make a variety of gathered-end hammocks, but I was most interested in their Boone Hammocks.  These have built in underquilts, that are still adjustable.  What you get is a full coverage underquilt that is faster to deploy and much warmer then your average hammock + underquilt setup.  The only sacrifice is a slightly heavier weight.  Also, you can't remove the underquilt if you want to head into colder temps then normal - though you can add to it!

If you have more than one underquilt, you can double them up for bonus warmth.  Just remember that to be fully effective, the insulation needs to loft fully.  So don't string it up too tightly.  You can double up your top-insulation in the same way!


Putting It All Together

So how do you actually get all this nonsense setup?  Well, there are any number of ways - each depending on the the gear you have selected.  In addition, the order I put things up varies depending on the situation.

For example, if weather is crappy, I'm obviously going to put up my tarp first so I can hang my hammock in a dry space.  Otherwise, I'll generally hang my hammock first.  If it's windy and cold, I'll string my tarp low and tight around my hammock.  If it's hot, or just nice out and I want to have my tarp open I'll rig it up high (or not put it up at all!).

Here is an overview video I did a while back (featuring the Boone 40 hammock from Sheltowee Hammock Company).  It should give you a general idea if you've never seen a hammock system in person.  Then we'll break it down:

In the video, I am using Stingerz from Dutchware to string up my tarp.  If you look at the bottom of his page, you'll see a close up video of how to use his Stingerz.  

Now, all this fancy hardware does is allow for a fast and easy setup.  It's also more convenient when you have frozen fingers.  However, you can easily accomplish the same thing with any old cord and some knots if you have the inclination.  Some tarps, like the ENO ProFly have built in cord and line-locks which are pretty easy.  I use a combo of knots and hardware.

A continuous tarp ridgeline is another method of hanging your tarp.  It allows you to easily move and center your tarp at will.  Two methods to do this can be found here on Dutch's site.  

Another continuous ridgeline method is to just attach your ridgeline cord to one end of your tarp with a small biner, go around one of the trees then back to the biner (forming a V shape with the tree), then continue to the other end of your tarp.  Clip the ridgeline into a biner there, then continue around the other tree, form another V, then back to the last biner where you tie it off.  You can use a Stingerz to make that tie off easy on one end.  With this setup, you can slide the entire tarp back and forth easily to center it.

The method I use most often is to simply attach the tarp to the hammock suspension itself using amsteel prussik knots.  Obviously this requires hanging the hammock first, but it's the fastest and easiest method of all.  For the tarp to stay taut however, you need to nail that 30 degree angle.  And you need to use shock cords on your tarp tie-outs.  With care, you can even take down your hammock first in the morning if it happens to start raining.  (Assuming the prussik is on your tree strap and not your whoopie sling).

However you hang the tarp, you will generally need 4 stakes to then tie out the bottom corners.  Some tarps have doors as well (flaps really) that you will need to secure with more stakes (or just tie them back to the tarp if you want airflow).  I use the classic UL staple: the titanium hook stake.

201 level tip - I rarely end up using all my stakes.  The tie out setup utilizing the Figure 9's allows you to easily loop around conveniently located trees, brush, logs, rocks, etc.

Hanging the hammock itself is probably the part that takes the longest to master.  Derek (from the Ultimate Hang) probably describes it best, but here is the gist of it:

1) Find two trees at least between 12' and 20' apart (or whatever you determine your rigs min and max distance to be - your height is a factor!).  You can gauge this in the wild by pacing it off.  The average span of a normal walking step is roughly 3 feet.

2) Based on the trees separation, put your tree slings/huggers/traps around both trees.  For example, for me and my setup, I know for trees that are 12 feet apart I need my straps to be at chin height.  For trees that are 18' apart I need to be about 2 feet above my head.

3) Attach one end of the hammock to one strap, un-roll/bag/bunch your hammock, and attach the other end to the other tree.  Verify you have roughly a 30 degree angle between your hammock suspension line and the tree using the "thumb and forefinger" method:  If you stand next to the tree, and put your hand out with your palm facing you, just stick your thumb straight up and your forefinger straight out - that angle between the tip of your thumb and finger is just about exactly 30 degrees.  Adjust the height of your tree straps and the length of your suspension to the hammock to match.

4) Attach your underquilt to the hammock.

5) Throw your topquilt into the hammock.

6) Get in (slowly!) to make sure your attachments are all good.  Sleep!

Optionally, you may like a pillow.  Sometimes I use one, sometimes not.  My neck has funky issues so sometimes I need the extra support.

Hammock hanging nitty gritty:  I prefer to use tree straps (just simple climbing webbing that is about 5 to 6 feet in length) + whoopie slings (if you are the DIY sort, they are actually quite easy to make.  Get some Amsteel and fire up Youtube).

One end of my tree straps have a Dutchware strap hook on the end.  I wrap the strap around the tree, and hook it, leaving the excess hanging down.  Then I take the eyelet from my whoopie sling (which is attached directly to my hammock) and tie it to my strap with a Becket Hitch (modified with a slip knot for easy removal).

This is the lightest suspension method I have found that also allows for easy adjustment.  It's also very fast to put up and take down.  However, you can use just about anything you want that will take the weight.  I even tried paracord once.  FYI - it's terrible, stretches too much and binds too easily.  You can also just have your tree straps continue all the way from the tree to your hammock for a dirt simple approach (most off the shelf hammock systems work this way).  Play around with different methods, putting it together and taking it down, until you find the method you prefer.

I would recommend NOT just heading out into the wild and figuring it all out the first time you decide to overnight in a hammock.  Sure, you can probably make it work, but fumbling around and/or finding out you are missing something would be annoying.

If you are going into bug season, consider adding a bug net like the Buginator from BIAS.  Some hammocks have a built in bug net as well.  Or simple wear a headnet if most of your body will be covered up anyway.  You might get some ants crawling on you if your tree selection is unlucky.

Other additional gear to consider: Weathershields.  I've experimented with these some, but find I rarely need them.  Essentially they are an additional barrier that goes outside of your underquilt to stop wind and moisture.  This can be a big help when dealing with crosswinds.  Keep in mind though if you use a totally waterproof fabric, you will get condensation buildup on the underside of your underquilt from your bodies perspiration.

A recent item from Thermorest could be the holy-grail of barriers however: The Slacker Hammock Warmer.  I just received my yesterday, expect a review soon!

I hope this rapid fire primer gives you some ideas to try out and saves you some aggravation!  When learning to hammock, experimentation is the name of the game.  You will learn something new the first dozen times you go for an overnight hang.

Have some questions?  Need more details or more info?  Let me know!  I'm happy to expand on this.  Undoubtedly there are things I've forgotten to mention, and I don't want you to be stuck as a ground dweller due to lack of information!

Happy Hangin'!

Gear Links

Hammocks:

Sheltowee Boone 40: http://www.sheltoweehammockcompany.com/hammocks/boone-40

Sheltowee Boone 20: http://www.sheltoweehammockcompany.com/hammocks/boone-20-hammock

BIAS Weight Weenie Micro: http://www.buttinasling.com/wewemi.html

Byer Traveller Lite: http://amzn.to/1XjvWfe

Tarps:

HG Winter Palace: http://www.hammockgear.com/tarp-cf3-winter-palace/

HG Standard Tarp with Doors: http://www.hammockgear.com/standard-cuben-fiber-tarp-with-doors/

HG Hex Tarp: http://www.hammockgear.com/cuben-fiber-hammock-hex-tarp/

EnoPro Fly: http://amzn.to/1K1uI6a

Zpacks Cuben Hammock Tarps: http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/hammock_tarps.shtml

Warbonnect Superfly: https://www.warbonnetoutdoors.com/product/superfly/

Hardware:

Ultralight Stakes: http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/stakes.shtml

Stingerz: http://www.dutchwaregear.com/stingers.html

Biners: http://www.dutchwaregear.com/dutch-ridgeline-biners.html

Nite Ize Figure 9's (mini): http://amzn.to/1K1uX1b

Quilts:

Top and bottom quilts from HG: http://www.hammockgear.com/down-quilts/

Other stuff:

BIAS Buginator: http://www.buttinasling.com/bbu.html

Amsteel: http://amzn.to/1XjBp5C

Headnet: http://amzn.to/1osZn2E

Hammock Warmer: http://amzn.to/1ot0249
Climbing webbing: http://amzn.to/1ot0Cif

Ridgeline of Big Basin Run. Winter backpacking?

This past weekend I planned a return trip with DCUL to explore the Ridgeline of Big Basin Run in Shenandoah National Park. Luckily this time Skyline Drive was open, and I was able to avoid the detour in via Austin Mountain Trail. The weather report stood in stark contrast to the historical average temps for mid-December in Shenandoah - so we left behind our heavy winter gear and set out from Vienna Metro in 3-season conditions. We found Trisha wandering the Park n’ Ride, having missed her connection for the Old Rag trip. She climbed aboard with GQ, Radiance, Keith, Hannah, Rene, Melissa, Emilie, Marika, and myself. We headed west. After the requisite stop at Sheetz, we picked up a permit at Swift Mountain Gap, then completed the curvy mountain drive up to Loft Mountain Wayside. We were geared up and headed east along the Frazier Discovery Trail in short order. After a short but steep climb, we reached the ridgeline and headed south on the AT. We had a nice view immediately to the west of the Big Run gorge.

The AT was all soft pine needles, and made for fast walking. But we took a few snack breaks and just enjoyed the absurdly nice weather. It must have been above 70 already, and we all had a slight sweat going on. Everyone who wasn’t already in shorts had converted to them by this point, or was wishing they could. Many pant legs were rolled up.

After crossing Skyline drive a little after noon, we turned off the AT and headed northwest on Rockytop Trail. The trail is aptly named, as we were soon rolling our ankles on rocks hidden under the carpet of leaves. But the rock strewn ridge did have one advantage, an almost constant view to the west of the open valley and the Massanuttens through the leaf-free trees.

We passed the turn for Lewis Peak, and I completely forgot to suggest people make the short out and back jaunt to the top. Sorry guys!

Before long it was time to descend down to Big Run itself, and the very large metal bridge across it. Jimmy already had camp well in hand when the last of us arrived, with shelters scattered about in any available space. The consensus was about 13.5 miles for the day.

We congregated near the bridge at the trail intersection with Brown Mountain Run which had the only open flat space that wasn’t full of mud. Bear lines were hung, though it took me several embarrassing minutes to nail the throw. After Roan Highlands I prefer my food hang well out of bear-arm reach!

Sadly, in Shenandoah fires are verboten, so I produced a tiny LED lantern for some dinner ambiance. The conversation that night was full of hilarious exchanges and the usual swapping of war-stories The stars came out in a crystal clear sky as we discussed the merits of isobutane and alcohol stoves.

With no fire to enjoy, we retired very early - settling in for a solid 10 hours of sleep. So we at least still experienced that part of winter backpacking.

The next morning, we were up and moving just a little before 8am south on Big Run Portal Trail. We had the joy of several stream crossings in 40 degree water. If we weren’t awake before, we certainly were after!

Radiance was the only one brave (or crazy) enough to follow me through the deepest stream crossings! Never follow the tall people!

Eventually we turned away from Big Run and made our climb up and out on Patterson Ridge Trail, another ridgeline walk that in spring would offer no views at all! We were once again warm in no time as we climbed, taking down one false summit after another. Before long the trail deposited us on Skyline Drive within throwing distance of our cars.

The last remnants of Fall!

Hannah and Rene made an early departure with Melissa in her car, while the rest of us made a beeline for Blue Ridge Cafe and hot juicy burgers. The traditional overeating post-trip was completed with gusto.

Another great DCUL group and a great weekend! You can check out the trip details over at www.dculbackpacking.com

Instagram?

So I'm about a decade late, but I've been looking for a place to show off some of my favorite photos that was free of all the clutter of nonsense of Facebook or Google Plus.  I decided to give Instagram a try while in Europe, despite it's "phone app only" interface.  I have slowly started dropping my pics there.  Check it out:  https://www.instagram.com/will.fink/

Mr. & Mrs. Savage go to Europe

Last month Joan and I snuck off to Europe on holiday to visit our scattered families.  It was a whirlwind of planes, airports, and cars.  After a connection through Keflavik in Iceland (where we just briefly got to taste the air on the tarmac), we landed in Schipol, Holland.  Jet lag hit hard, but we rallied for a great dinner in Amsterdam with Joan's family for her birthday.  The next day, we hopped back on another plane for Denmark, then Norway.


My distant cousins Inger Lises and Siri picked us up from Stavanger airport, and we had a reunion dinner with a bunch of my distant family.  Some time was spent puzzling out the complex family tree!

The next day we got a tour of the Fjords of Jorpeland after a short ferry ride.  Norway is comprised of incredible looking landscapes!  I'm already plotting a return trip, possibly when the country is snow covered.


We made a trek up to Preikstolen (Pulpit Rock) - a prime tourist attraction but well worth it.  We were lucky to have an ice and snow free walk.

Several passerby clomping uphill in heavy boots asked if my sandal clad feet were cold.  Cold?  It was a balmy 11 degrees Celsius!  Why is everyone so bundled up!?  :)

 

The following day we hopped a connection through Copenhagen to Barcelona where we were retrieved by Joan's Uncle Martin and Aunt Ria.  We drove to Begur in Catalonia where he has a house overlooking the Mediterranean.  We really slummed for the four days we had here, let me tell you.

I instantly fell in love with Begur.  It was quiet, it had the sea, and mountains, and hiking/biking trails!  What else does one need?

We hiked a short section of the GR92 which followed the coast.  It was all gorgeous, and Joan and I worked up a sweat in the toasty 27 degrees C (~80F) temps and sunshine.  Really, the first sunlight we had seen on the trip so far!  The trail rolled over hilltops and descended into sheltered, pebbled beach coves.

We toured a few 9th rough 12th century settlements that are still active with residents today.  The laid back atmosphere was infectious.

The last day, we made the roughly 1 mile walk (and about 1000 feet of elevation loss) down to the sea for a very short and chilly swim.  The beach was deserted for some odd reason!

Begur was very walker friendly, with sidewalks and stairs weaving in and around all the closely packed terrace houses.  A good thing too, because everyone whips and speeds through the twisting, winding roads like there is no tomorrow!

On the 13th we were on yet another plane back to Uithoorn to stay with Joan's cousin Mignon and Jos.  We spent an entire day wandering Amsterdam, eating poffertjes, cheese, bread, chocolate, everything that makes life worth living :)

I gained a couple of kilos despite the amount of walking we did.

That night as we went to bed, we caught the news of the attacks in Paris.  It was quite surreal.  And we were glad that we had opted not to drive through France as originally planned.  On the last full day, Jos took me on a 50k bike tour around Uithoorn in driving rain and wind.  I couldn't think of a better way to see the Dutch countryside!  I marveled at the houses below sea level mere meters away from huge bodies of water.  Their doom seemed imminent, but Jos told me floods never happen due to the complex array of canals and pump stations.

We had our last dinner abroad at Tanta Ria's house.  The goodbyes were very sad that night and the next morning.  But eventually we boarded our WOW flight back for the states.

It was a jam-packed 11 days!  Looking forward to a return trip.  Huge thanks to our families for their incredible graciousness and hospitality.  Hopefully we can return the favor someday.

Winter Backpacking: Food, Water, Stoves.

Here is a followup to Part 1 of my winter backpacking tips, covering some other critical areas you should consider before traipsing off into the glory of a snow covered landscape.  Here are some basic tips for food, water and stoves:


Food

Winter food plan!

You definitely don't want to skimp on the calorie intake in winter.  Your body will be working overtime keeping you warm, and if you spend the day slogging uphill in snowshoes, you will develop a raging hunger without equal.  More work = more food needed.  But lets say you are just out for a normal hike (no snow or ice to worry about), but it's just really cold.  Even if your exertion level isn't burning extra calories, just being out in frigid temperatures will.

Luckily, you don't have to change a whole lot with your foods, but you probably want to make a few tweaks (besides maybe bring a little extra).  You want fatty foods!  I'll add olive oil to any hot meals I make (and sometimes cold ones).  1 ounce of olive oil is roughly 100 calories, so you can get some bonus energy in measurable amounts easily.  But also, fatty foods (besides helping you feel more full longer) keep you warmer as they digest.  This is especially important to think about before burrowing into your sleeping bag.

Sitting still in your bag, you no longer have the advantage of creating heat from moving.  But you can give yourself a boost by eating plenty of fat right before bed.  Dark chocolate is great (Ritter makes my favorite backpacking chocolate).  As it burns and digests while you sleep, you will keep cranking out the BTUs throughout the night.  I'll also keep a few chunks handy for when the temperature drops more (usually between 2 and 3am), or I just wake up feeling cold in the middle of night.  Also, just having a hot meal (and drinks) in your belly is a huge moral boost.  Winter isn't a time I would recommend trying to go stove-less!

You also should consider keeping your snack foods (the stuff you want to munch on while hiking) close to your body.  Nothing worse than trying to bite into your favorite food bar only to find it frozen solid.


Stoves

Speaking of stoves - do you need to buy a fancy stove, just for winter?  I'll give an ambiguous maybe.  It all depends on the temperature, and also on what conditions you are in for.  Will you be able to access liquid water, or will you have to melt snow and ice?

Let's start with the affects of freezing cold on stoves.  You will encounter a wide range of opinions and experiences with various fuel types in winter.  The two most common types you'll see on the trail (in 3 season backpacking) are of course isobutane and alcohol.  How do they fare in winter?

I read a very comprehensive article on iso-butane canister stove tests at various altitudes and temperatures, but alas, I can't seem to find it now.  I'll just summarize the highlights here.

Quite simply, those canisters are filled with a mix of butane and propane in liquid form.  Your canister stove works by burning the gaseous form of those fuels.  So in order for your stove to work, the temperature of the fuel inside has to be at or above the boiling point for each (which is a little under freezing for butane, and about -40F for propane).

So essentially, if you take your canister stove out and fire it up in temps well below freezing, you will be burning more propane fuel, and little or none of the butane.  It will be harder to light, burn less efficiently, and you'll also end up with a half used canister that you can't burn anymore and have to carry around the rest of your trip.  Plus, as the canister fuel is consumed, it will cool off even more, compounding the problem - the rate of butane fuel being used will go down steadily.

So, do you abandon your beloved canister stove for the duration of winter?  Not necessarily.  You just need to keep your fuel above freezing!  Burying it deep down in your pack with your down helps keep the chill at bay, or you can stuff it inside your jacket to warm it up before dinner.  You can also submerge it in water if you are really desperate (at worst that will keep the canister above the freezing point).  I've even read about people heating up the canisters with another stove or other means.  Not sure I can recommend that!

Long story short for canister stoves, you can still use them, but you might need to do a little more work.  Also, a good wind-screen is critical to try and regain some efficiency in winter.

The glory of frosted beards.

The story is similar with alcohol.  Probably the most preferred stove setup for ultra-light backpackers due to it's simplicity and cheapness.  But it suffers from the same issue as canister stoves.  When alcohol is below freezing, it is hard to light, and won't heat efficiently at all.

But luckily, you can overcome this even more easily.  As soon as I stop and start setting up camp, I'll throw my fuel bottle in my jacket.  A small bottle of alcohol is much easier to warm this way then a large fuel canister.  Usually by the time I'm ready to make dinner, it's good to go - and I can light it with my striker just like normal.  Assuming my finger dexterity is intact anyway.

If that won't work (or I just forgot to keep my fuel warm, or I can't feel my fingers) - I cheat.  I fill my can-stove like normal then pull out my storm-proof matches, light it and drop it right in.  That ignites it every time, and usually gets the fuel immediately boiling as a bonus.  Despite the numerous myths out there, I've used my Caldera Cone setup with alcohol stove well below zero.  A good windscreen, again, is a must.  A piece of foil or thin metal sheet under the stove also helps tremendously, especially on snow.

So, typically, I would say you are fine with whatever stove you have, assuming you go in prepared and ready to overcome the chill.  But besides just boiling water for your meal-in-a-bag (and making hot drinks!), if you want to go into deep winter, sooner or later you may need to melt snow.

What's awesome is, the winter sometimes opens up territories that might otherwise be bone dry any other time of the year by providing an abundance of water everywhere you look.  You just need to make it liquid again.

Turning hail into breakfast at a dry camp in the Tetons.

Either alcohol or canister stoves can be used for snow-melting just fine.  Though canisters have the obvious advantage of working with larger pots for mass-production.  This is something to think about if you are generating water for more than just yourself.  Snow is something like 80% air, so you need to burn through a lot of it!

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention two other types of stoves that are meant for deep winter.  Both liquid burning - so they need priming and a bit more care.  But they will be stable regardless of temperatures.  Personally, I think you'd have to be in for a lot of winter backpacking to make the investment worth it (I still don't own either type below).

Inverted canister stoves, like the Jetboil Helios, are handy in that they use the same isobutane canisters as most other backpacking stoves.  The differences being this one is configured to burn liquid fuel, and uses the canisters upside down.  Just like that, the cold isn't a problem!

The other popular type of stove is white gas - like the Whisperlite.  The great advantage of these is just how much burn time you can get from one canister - they last a LONG time.  You will see reviews and comments are both sides for these stoves.  Many love them, but most will agree they need more work and maintenance to keep them working properly.  Make sure you are versed in troubleshooting and that it's running smoothly before heading out!

UPDATE: MSR also makes an inverted canister stove that is a bit more affordable, and simple then the Jetboil version: MSR Wind Pro II

Obviously, both these setups are way bulkier and heavier than you would ever consider on a 3 season backpack.  But sometimes in winter, heavy loads are the only choice.  Of course, you can always build a nice fire (a fantastic treat in winter!), but that isn't always an option.  Wood could be scarce, or just hard to find - or fires could be outright banned as it is in most National Parks.



Water

Frozen lake walking.

Don't let it freeze!  It's a lot harder to drink!  Seriously though, having your water bottle freeze up is a real pain.  Thawing it out can sometimes be impossible, as the only way to do it is to press it against your core and keep it there for a very long time (sometimes overnight).  That makes you cold, no good.

Most people will abandon their water bladder hydration systems for winter.  While you can use them, it takes some extra work.  You have to remember to blow out your hydro-tube every single time you finishing taking a drink.  Forget once, and it freezes up.  You are done.  You'll also need to keep the bladder against your back.  Depending on your pack, that might not be possible.

I switch to winter specific bottles when temperatures plummet, or use home-made bottle insulators (out of Reflectix).  By far, I would most recommend the 40oz HydroFlask for winter.  It has a vacuum sealed chamber to insulated the inner container, and works wonders for keeping your water from freezing.  It can also keep a hot drink hot!

But before you worry too much about buying more stuff, the number one simple way to keep your water liquid is just to keep it next to your body.  With your pack hip-belt clipped, there is a natural pouch formed right at your belly that makes a great place to stash your water bottle inside your layers.  Heavy winter parkas will usually come with inner pockets designed for just this purpose as well.

In winter, I tend not to carry a whole lot of water at one time (ok, I don't really carry a lot in 3 seasons either!).  If you really don't want your water to freeze, well, just carry it in your body!  Stay well hydrated at all times.  This is especially important in frigid climates, as you will be burning through fluids faster than you realize.  If you start - and stay - hydrated, you can probably get away with just 1 liter or so carried at a time.  And that's a lot easier to manage then trying to keep several liters from freezing.

This of course assumes you can readily access unfrozen water to refill when you need it.  Melting on the go will really slow you down.  Plan ahead, always!

Until next time!  Be safe out there.